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Your X-BIONIC / X-SOCKS Team

Nanga Parbat

It’s snowing – yet again. It’s been snowing for the last 3 days. Visibility is poor, route marking in the fresh show is physically draining, and pulling out the frozen and snowed-in fixed rope takes incredible strength. Strength that we no longer have…

part 1

It’s snowing – yet again. It’s been snowing for the last 3 days. Visibility is poor, route marking in the fresh show is physically draining, and pulling out the frozen and snowed-in fixed rope takes incredible strength. Strength that we no longer have…

We were physically perfectly prepared for this enterprise. Each of us had trained hard, deprived ourselves and suffered. But here, over the last few weeks, our bodies have become powerless, abused, emaciated shells that can be driven on only with tireless motivation and strength of will. Despite all caution, second thoughts and protestations, our mind-set is uncompromising: “onwards and upwards”. This approach is, to a certain extent, indispensable when you are tackling a tough 8000 m mountain. The challenge involves an incalculable residual risk. To claim anything else would be purely and simply to lie. All of us have already climbed 8000 m peaks. We are familiar with extreme height and we know the dangers.

31.03.2009 - 09:55
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part 2

We are 6 enthusiastic male and female mountaineers from Austria and Germany. An eclectic mix, ranging from biology student to paramedic. We’ve become acquainted on various expeditions over recent years. Out shared aim for the summer of 2008 was the 8125 m high Nanga Parbat. The “Naked Mountain” as the locals call the mountain of superlatives. The western-most 8000 m peak, the highest free-standing elevation. Its faces are the two highest walls in the world – the 4500 m high Rupal face in the south and the 4000 m high Diarmir face in the west. “Killer Mountain”, “Fateful Mountain of the Germans”, more difficult and dangerous that K2, leading the fatality statistics, and therefore well down in the conquering stakes. Everything’s right and yet everything’s not quite right. The high death rate on this mountain comes from the early German climbing attempts in the 30s, when fatalities were simply a part of conquering a peak in the Himalayas. Over recent years and decades, Nanga Parbat has been climbed around 200 times by various routes, and repeatedly made alpine history. There are still frequent deaths on Nanga Parbat, but the rate of fatality is now no more than on the other 8000 m peaks.

Each of us had different reasons for wanting to climb Nanga Parbat. Something we shared was the joy of this adventure and the enthusiasm for the challenge. We aimed to attempt the Kinshofer route on the Diarmir face. A stunning, direct line, leading 4000 m up in the steep ice, rock and snow to the peak. As always, we decided to do without bottled oxygen and porters.

31.03.2009 - 09:54
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part 3

We started the journey to Nanga Parbat in early June. The first bit of luck we had was in Islamabad when we were driving past the Danish Embassy in our minibus – just as a bomb went off there. The rest of the journey up to the 4250 m high base camp on the Diarmir side of Nanga Parbat ran smoothly. Only one of us had the misfortune to contract diarrhoea with fever on the 3-day trek through the Diarmir Valley. It would not be the last case. Then we were lucky again when we arrived at the base camp. Two German teams were already there and had laid a fixed rope to a height of 6000 m. We were extremely grateful and offered to help with the remainder of the preparations. To start off, we were lucky with the weather, too. For four weeks, we hardly saw a cloud. Work progressed speedily. It was not long before we had our high camps in place: camp 1 between two large avalanche runs at the foot of the face under the protection of a small rock overhang at 4900 m, camp 2 on a magnificent ledge at 6000 m and the tent platforms for camp 3 chopped into a steep ice slope at 6850 m. The only things that slowed us were a near catastrophe when one of our group was brushed by a rock the size of a car tyre on the 150 m high grade 5 vertical Kinshofer wall, then when a giant avalanche enveloped the complete climbing route to camp 1, missing two of our tents by a couple of metres, and finally by various antibiotic-resistant E-coli strains and various other bugs that debilitated us at regular intervals. When you came down from the mountain to recover from the merciless punishment of the climb, you could almost be certain to spend your rest phases with extreme diarrhoea and fever. In this respect we were hounded by bad luck. If one of us escaped with a harmless but nevertheless repetitive diarrhoea, others were laid low with dysentery – some were even hit twice in quick succession. The dehydration caused by dysentery is so great that infusions were required after just one day. Fluids that you take in, in different ways, leave the body by the direct route. The only relief is provided by very strong antibiotics and drugs. It is by no means healthy. And it certainly doesn’t promote efficiency on the mountain. But what else can you do. You don’t want to die of diarrhoea.

During this time, we lost a great deal of energy and strength in climbing and working on the mountain. And even more from illnesses in the base camp. By the time our high camps were ready, we were exhausted. And even more bad luck – the fine weather had gone. It had started snowing. One piece of good fortune, though, was our equipment, which was the very best. As banal as it may sound, the equipment is the last thing you want to be bothered about in such an extreme situation as we encountered on Nanga Parbat. It just needs to work. Even when nothing else is working. In our case, we were in the fortunate situation of having only the best available – tents, sleeping bags and clothing. At this point, we can unreservedly recommend and praise the socks and functional underwear of X-Bionic (x-socks and x-underwear). They simply do their job!

31.03.2009 - 09:44
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part 4

But back to the action. To the changing face of lady luck. The “expedition weather sage”, Charly Gabl from Innsbruck, forecast a brief window of clear weather. Short enough to need to climb up and down in bad weather, but long enough to stand on the summit in fine weather. We knew that in our condition, weakened by illness, we would be able undertake only one attempt at the summit. We also knew that we would have to prepare the entire route through the deep fresh snow again. We knew that the risk of avalanche would be greater than 4 weeks previously. We knew that our chance would be small. Simply stated, our luck had run out. But we wanted to push our luck and so we set off. Progress up to camp 2 was fairly swift. It was a never-ending grind, but we were prepared for that. The technical difficulties of the route are behind you from camp 3. By this point, exhaustion forced four of us to turn back (fortunately), using our last reserves to tackle the difficult descent to the safe base camp. The remaining two spent two hard nights in camp 3 and made two failed attempts to dig their way through heaps of new snow before dejectedly giving up. This was not a matter of being reasonable or having the “courage to turn back”. We just didn’t have the opportunity. At the decisive moment, we were unlucky. But during this expedition, we had incredible fortune a couple of times. The fortune to have escaped with our lives on several occasions by a hair’s breadth.

We knew what we were taking on. We also knew that the chances of success on a mountain like this are small. We were therefore not disheartened when we terminated the expedition. A little disappointed, yes, but the predominant mood was one of joy that we had all come down from the mountain in one piece.

31.03.2009 - 09:43
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